The McKenzie River
Oregon's cold, clear gem
I am surprised that I don’t have more shots of this wild and magical river in my portfolio. I remember seeing an entire coffee-table book that some photog shot exclusively of this river.
It flows into the Willamette at Eugene, Oregon, and is (partly) one of the only two reasons that anyone ever moves to Eugene (the other is to get an education at U of O). It is the coldest river in Oregon, and one of the purest. I shan’t do it justice with my meager selection of photos here.
The McKenzie begins at Clear Lake, high in the Oregon Cascades near their summit:
This lake is so pure that in most places, you can see the bottom. It is fed by snowmelt that percolates through the lavas of the Three Sisters. There is a nice resort there.
A mile or two downstream, the river pours over the edges of a 2,900-year-old lava flow to form two waterfalls. Here is Koosah Falls, the second of them:
But the gem of the McKenzie waterfalls is up Proxy Creek, off a road (Oregon SR 242) that is only open for a few months a year. You have to hike to the falls:
Thousands of people make the hike every year. Don’t be surprised to find the parking area full. If you want to go, plan on going in the middle of the week. And try to get there early in the day.
Nearby is Rainbow Falls. I didn’t get a good shot of the falls, but here is a gorgeous shot of some Stonecrop that was growing there:
Stonecrop is a succulent. Like cacti (also succulents) it stores water when it is available, and uses it to live when conditions are dry. I took this shot one spring, when there was plenty of water, so we see the plant fully distended.
Some miles downriver, the South Fork of the McKenzie River flows in. This is the northern terminus of the famed Aufderheide Scenic Byway, a paved Forest Service road that begins on the Middle Fork of the Willamette near Oakridge and is one of the most scenic drives around. A few miles up this road from the McKenzie end is the notorious “clothing-optional” Terwilliger Hot Springs (aka Cougar Hot Springs), where naked hippies can be seen on any summer day. Here are some monkeyflowers growing on a wet cliff very near to the hot springs:
A little way further up is a road going to an old fire lookout on Indian Ridge, with a spectacular view of this part of the Cascades. Here’s the view from there:
I’ve visited the lookout a number of times. One night, we stayed until dusk, driving down in the dark. The full moon rose over the mountains to the east.
It was one of those moments that I’ll never forget, and never regret. I love these mountains.
Your photo of Clear Lake is like something out of a travel brochure - most excellent. I really loved reading this article, so informative and full of great imagery. Thanks for posting!